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Town dubbed the ‘Tuscany of Turkey’ with wine routes & Michelin star restaurants

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I WAS after some much-needed sunshine, after, what was, a dismally gloomy Scottish summer.

But where to go? A pal suggested Turkey, but I wasn’t sure.

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Spectacular ocean view from Antmare HotelCredit: Rachel Guy Izmir
Sunset over the Urla Wine Route in Izmir

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Sunset over the Urla Wine Route in IzmirCredit: Supplied
A tour of the stunning array of plants in the Uzbaş Arboretum

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A tour of the stunning array of plants in the Uzbaş Arboretum
The official Urla Wine Route is made up of ten successful vineyards

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The official Urla Wine Route is made up of ten successful vineyardsCredit: Rachel Guy Izmir
Intimate wine tasting at Sevilen's stunning Isabey winery

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Intimate wine tasting at Sevilen’s stunning Isabey wineryCredit: Rachel Guy Izmir

I associated a holiday there with an all-inclusive haven for families filled with waterparks and kids’ entertainment – which the country is highly regarded for.

While families and sun worshippers love popular beach resorts like Antalya, I – a childless 33-year-old – am more partial to city breaks, brimming with culture, food and wine.

So it came as a pleasant surprise to learn Turkey is quickly becoming one of the gastronomy hotspots of Europe.

Often dubbed the Tuscany of Turkey, the postcard pretty region of Urla in Izmir is emerging as the ultimate food and wine destination in the country.

Less than an hour’s drive from Izmir city centre, small vineyards have banded together to form the Urla Wine Route, where you can   indulge at top vineyards and enjoy fantastic food at Michelin star restaurants.

I kicked off my culinary journey with a relaxed and comfortable flight watching the best of reality TV from Edinburgh with Turkish Airlines before arriving in the city of Izmir.

I checked into the luxurious 4H Antmare Hotel – named by owners because of its breathtaking location next to the sea – in nearby Alacati.

GO: TURKEY

GETTING THERE: Turkish Airlines fly to Izmir from Edinburgh, via Istanbul, with fares from £310pp. See turkishairlines.com.

STAYING THERE: See antmare.com for the best rates at the 4H Antmare Hotel in Alacati

MORE INFO: For more see goturkiye.com

It boasts just 35 elegant rooms, all uniquely decorated with a gorgeous view and a tranquil pool area.  You can wander from pool to the sea in a matter of ten steps, where the owners have built a man-made beach.

But for a foodie like me, the absolute highlight of the Antmare Hotel is its impressive breakfast buffet. Packed with an array of breads, olives, meats and cheeses, I was in food heaven.

Speaking of breakfast, a staple this country prides itself on is coffee. Yes, Turkish coffee is known to be   a lot stronger than the brew we have at home, but there are plenty of places in Izmir that will help you embrace the strength.

Köşe Kahve is one of them, based in the heart of Alacati, it is one of the hottest meet up spots for both tourists and locals.

After an intense boost for the day I was off in search of the Urla Wine Route – however I had a brief stop-off to make on the way.

There are very few things I love more than a satisfying glass of white wine but extra virgin olive oil is up there,  so you can imagine my excitement when we took  a detour to the world’s largest olive oil museum for a tour  and  tasting experience.

Olive oil tasting at the family-run Köstem Olive Oil Museum

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Olive oil tasting at the family-run Köstem Olive Oil MuseumCredit: Rachel Guy Izmir
The museum has an impressive collection of historic machines and equipment dating back thousands of years

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The museum has an impressive collection of historic machines and equipment dating back thousands of yearsCredit: Rachel Guy Izmir
Proud members of the Urla Wine Route with their favourite products including the president Can Ortabaş

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Proud members of the Urla Wine Route with their favourite products including the president Can OrtabaşCredit: Rachel Guy Izmir

The  family-run Köstem Olive Oil Museum in Uzunkuyu Village tells the fascinating story of olive pressing through the ages and has an impressive collection of historic machines and equipment dating back thousands of years.

The complex also has a modern olive oil factory producing some of the finest olive oil in Turkey, as well as a gift shop full of olive-based soaps, fragrances and candles.

Purchases safely stored in the car, I set off on the Urla Wine Route or Urla Ba Yolu in Turkish.

In 2016, seven boutique wine producers founded the route, using old   paths that wind their way through the province. Since then another three members have joined, making the official trail of ten vineyards.

The president of the Urla Wine Route, Can Ortabaş hosted an intimate wine tasting with the owners of each vineyard while taking me through the individual stories of the wineries involved.

The route is made up olive groves, fruit orchards, and vineyards, where visitors can enjoy high-quality, award-winning wines made of grapes with a 6,000-year-old history!

There are also picturesque vineyard walks and gourmet restaurants presenting unique tastes.

Enis Guner offered a tour of the grounds of Isabey

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Enis Guner offered a tour of the grounds of IsabeyCredit: Rachel Guy Izmir
The highlight dish of the week - sole topped with Narince mussel sauce, pea and mint puree, sage foam & caviar

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The highlight dish of the week – sole topped with Narince mussel sauce, pea and mint puree, sage foam & caviarCredit: Rachel Guy Izmir
A stunning lunch at İIsabey Baglari

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A stunning lunch at İIsabey BaglariCredit: Supplied
The brunch of all brunches in the romantic garden setting of Asma Yapragi

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The brunch of all brunches in the romantic garden setting of Asma YapragiCredit: Rachel Guy Izmir

Although not on the Urla Wine Route list, a trip to the Sevilen Group’s vineyard is definitely worth your while. The property, made up of 160 hectares of vineyard and a first class restaurant, is managed by the third generation of the Guner family.

Enis Guner took us on a tour of the grounds telling us the backstory of his family’s business, which dates all the way back to 1942.

Now if you aren’t exactly a wine connoisseur, as I mentioned before, the area is also making waves in the food industry. Chef Osman Serdaroglu’s bluefin tuna at Terruar – which has recently been awarded a Michelin star this year – was out of this world.

And Od Urla’s was also awarded a Michelin star this year thanks to chef Osman Sezener, whose tasting menu was on par with the stunning décor.

Lunch in the sun at Isabey Vineyard’s Michelin selected restaurant İIsabey Baglari was mouthwatering, thanks to the sole topped with Narince mussel sauce, pea and mint puree, sage foam & caviar.

While not quite a Michelin star, a trip to Asma Yapragi  for a traditional Turkish breakfast experience should definitely be on your list.

There I had the brunch of all brunches in the rustic and romantic garden, surrounded by antiques and treasures collected by owner and che Ayse Nur Mihci. The roasted pumpkin Meze in particular was incredible.

And after stuffing my belly I emptied my wallet, as the stunning antiques are available to buy,  so diners can wander the quaint property and  pick out a little something to remember it by.
When I wasn’t eating and drinking my way around Izmir, I was certainly walking.

A trip down to Izmir city centre  revealed all the hustle and bustle of the markets as locals flocked to get their shopping or catch up for coffee.

 And I got my culture fix when I learned a bit of the history of Izmir in the impressive Izmir Culture and Arts Factory Archaeology and Ethnography Museum and admired the gorgeous  Izmir Clock Tower.

The ancient city of Ephesus is a must-see

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The ancient city of Ephesus is a must-seeCredit: Supplied
Visitors should note the ruins are dramatically lit up in the evening

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Visitors should note the ruins are dramatically lit up in the eveningCredit: Rachel Guy Izmir

But what Izmir is probably most famous for is its proximity to one of the seven ancient wonders of the world; the ancient city of Ephesus.

It dates back to the 10th Century BC and was considered the most important city in ancient times before being conquered by the Roman Empire in 129 BC.

The well-preserved archaeological site with its breath-taking ruins, makes for a fascinating day out.

I’d advise to visit just before sunset as the views are even more spectacular during golden hour before the ruins are dramatically lit in the evening.

Read more on the Scottish Sun

The sight of the Temple of Artemis illuminated in all its glory is one I’ll never forget. And the same goes for Turkey.

Next time I need some reprieve from the miserable Scottish weather, I know where I’ll be heading.

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