There I was, treading water in the clear blue Aegean Sea while holding a glass of rosé, a rented yacht a dozen feet behind me. Things can’t get better than this, I thought. And then the ice cream boat pulled up. And I bought a pistachio ice cream. And things did get better.
Bodrum, Türkiye is so gorgeous that I kind of want to gatekeep it from you. (And, just so you know: Turkey rebranded as Türkiye back in 2022, asking the U.N. for an official name change.) A popular vacation destination both within Türkiye and internationally (especially for Europeans!), it doesn’t have a large American tourism presence just yet. And, selfishly, I kind of want to keep it that way. You know, so I can go back without having to wait in line at a bar, or fight for space on the beach. But, unfortunately, part of signing up to write about travel is actually having to write about travel. So, here we are!
Located on the Aegean coast—a half-hour ferry ride from Kos, Greece—Bodrum is rich in history, but also has a thriving food and nightlife scene. Case in point: You can spend a day checking out one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, and then the night consuming tequila shots at some of the iconic nightclubs. I did, and I would highly recommend it.
But for me, what I loved most about Bodrum was the proximity to the sea. It’s so clear! So blue! And so salty, which means it’s easier to float…so you can drink that wine at any depth. It’s super easy to hire a boat (yachts included—ours was called Top Gun), and you can get a small motorboat for about $75 an hour. Even if that’s not in your budget, there are plenty of other opportunities to get out on the water in some way. The marina area is full of boats catering to tourists, including many Turkish tourists. But more on that later!
If you’re heading to Bodrum, or just daydreaming about the next time you’ll go to the beach, here is a travel guide just for you, based on my itinerary in the pretty coastal city.
(Full transparency: The writer received comped accommodations, meals, and experiences during this getaway.)
GETTING THERE
Bodrum might seem far, but it’s actually super painless to get to if you fly Turkish Airlines. I took a direct (Business! Class!) flight from New York to Istanbul, which was about nine and a half hours long, and then had a little under 48 hours (and some delicious meals) in Istanbul thanks to Turkish Airlines’ Enhanced Stopover Program. The program gives economy-class travelers a free one-night stay in a 4-star hotel when they have a connection period of at least 20 hours, and business-class travelers a free two-night stay in a 5-star hotel. You do have to apply at least 72 hours before your flight—more info on how to do so, here. But, you can think of the stopover program as a pre-vacation vacation for those who might want to explore Istanbul before jetting off to Bodrum! Which leads us to…
STAY
- Kaya Palazzo: I had so much fun staying in this hotel because it’s located on the top of a very steep hill, and you travel from your hotel room to the pier—where the hotel’s restaurants, bars, and private beach are located—by golf cart. The spacious rooms are scattered around the property—mine had a small balcony, perfect for lounging with a glass of champagne. If ocean swimming isn’t your thing, you’ll also find two outdoor pools that are open late and have a very sexy lighting scheme. I also have to shout out the staff, who were super friendly and recommended spots around town.
PLAY
Swim in the Aegean Sea: This might be my new favorite body of water in the world. (Yes, I do have a list.) As I mentioned, if you go to Bodrum, you simply have to hit the sea—even better if you can get on a boat and watch the sunset. If you’re looking for beachside lounging, try Bitez Beach or Kumbahçe Beach, and you can catch a boat ride at Milta Bodrum Marina.
Appreciate some history: Go back in time with a tour of 15th-century Bodrum Castle (which also has excellent views of the Aegean) and the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology, which features ancient artifacts that have been uncovered in underwater excavations. Personally, my favorite part of the experience was saying “Pssspsspssspssspsss” to all the cats sunbathing in the ruins.
Visit one of the Seven Wonders of the World: The ruins of the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus are still standing, and you can wander among them at your pleasure. Unlike some other ancient artifacts, you can get up close and personal with the Mausoleum ruins—no fences to keep you away. Keep an eye out for more friendly local cats, too!
Sample Bodrum’s nightlife: Bodrum has quite the party scene. I recommend Bitz Bodrum, an open-air lounge that plays both American and Turkish pop music, or Mandalin, for a swanky vibe. At Bitz, I had more tequila shots and danced harder than I have in literal years. I’ve got videos of me saying, “When in Bodrum!!!!” to prove it.
EAT
Palazzo Lounge: Kaya Palazzo, the hotel I stayed at, has an in-house restaurant with an extensive menu of local Turkish dishes, Italian favorites, lots of local seafood (my fave!), and steaks. Get the shrimp!
Bodrum Harbor: This isn’t a specific restaurant, but the popular Bodrum Harbor is lined with shops and restaurants offering kebabs, salads, ice cream, and more. Stop for a meal or a snack before or after you head out to sea. I loved sampling the various kinds of dips available, and you should make a point to do it too.
Sultan Bahçe Restaurant: This Mediterranean restaurant comes highly rated, and the shrimp, lamb kebabs, and pide—a Turkish flatbread—are particularly popular. I’m drooling just thinking about it.
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Erika W. Smith (she/her) is the Senior Astrology Editor at Cosmopolitan. She also contributes lifestyle, travel, and sex and relationships coverage. In her decade-long media career, she’s become an expert in the “women’s lifestyle” beat and has held staff positions at Refinery29, BUST magazine, and HelloGiggles. Her book Astrosex: How to Have the Best Sex According to Your Star Sign was published in 2021.
