Small gestures of compassion often hold deeper meanings. On Friday, Aug. 30, 2024, as we stepped off the bus at Antakya, southeastern Türkiye, a Syrian taxi driver extended a heartfelt farewell. I thought to myself, Antakya is rising, and it will soon regain its glory and spirit and shine once again.
Antakya’s bus station is small but vibrant and filled with friendly people. Near the bus stop, a small corner shopkeeper was selling tea and simit (Turkish bagels). We treated ourselves and shared the simit with a collared turtle dove, reminding me of the saying, “What goes around comes around.”
The bus driver greeted us and offered cold mineral water. Surprisingly, he departed on time with only a few passengers. Along the journey, I took note of the splendid features of Antakya, which resisted the devastation of the 2023 earthquake.
I observed the post-earthquake shelter homes, scenery and modern building structures around me. I recorded Türkiye’s latest agricultural, industrial and housing developments, stretching across towns, stunning valleys, vast lands and green mountains.
I admired Türkiye’s natural richness – from wheat and olives to fruits, it has abundant resources. More importantly, I saw the human intent to utilize and cultivate this wealth. Alongside the main roads, brand-new housing schemes and industrial units were processing yields like olives, wheat and cotton, with farms scattered throughout. In the distance, I noticed windmills on mountaintops, solar panels in vast fields and forestation efforts reflecting Türkiye’s ambitions for sustainable growth.
Municipalities across Hatay have also organized graveyards, surrounding them with trees and creating shaded areas for relief during the hot summer months.
I couldn’t wait to reach Gaziantep and started posting videos on TikTok, tagging friends in business and service sectors, urging them to notice what I describe as Türkiye’s journey toward development. The five-hour trip to Gaziantep was both a quality time passed and a learning experience.
The gastronomy city
The city immediately caught my attention with its clean highways, modern infrastructure and greenbelts alongside roads decorated with Turkish flags over key buildings and roundabouts. It felt like celebrating the city’s glorious past, especially on Victory Day.
Gaziantep is a historical icon, hosting the treasures of some of the world’s great empires – Persian, Roman, Byzantine, the early Islamic periods of the Umayyads, the Seljuks, and finally, the Ottomans. Today, the footmarks, standing monuments, structures, courtyards and cultural gestures all testify to Gaziantep’s glorious past.
We had some trouble locating our traditional hotel in Sahinbey, an old house-turned-hotel on a hill between Ali Ozal Gan and Nother Hakki Sokak. However, the manager generously offered us a replacement at the Velic Hotel, across from the 16th-century Cinarli Camii (Chinar Mosque), named after the chinar trees in its courtyard.
I called Ms. Essraa Alhamdan, a colleague at Leeds Beckett University, who had recommended the trip to Gaziantep. I have ample experience with Arab and Turkish cultures rooted in generosity. Essraa’s brother, Ayhem Alhamdan, kindly offered to pick us up.
They drove us to the city’s popular Lavash Ciğer restaurant, where we tasted kebab, lahmacun (Turkish pizza), ayran and Kiremitte tahin helvası with coffee, all of which confirmed Gaziantep’s reputation as a gastronomy city, as recognized by UNESCO.
Our hosts demonstrated that Arabs and Turks are among the most generous people. We visited Essraa’s house, where her mother presented us with Gaziantep’s famous baklava. I recalled that Essraa had once brought me Sireli baklava, a taste I had never experienced before. To all food lovers out there, your next destination should be Gaziantep.
Historic treasures
The following day, we enjoyed a sumptuous Turkish breakfast – a buffet-style spread with various cheeses, olives, salads, Turkish bread, tea and coffee. After restoring our energy, we hurried to explore the nearby historic sites.
We visited Gaziantep Castle, the old caravanserais Millet Hanı (1562), Zeytin Han (1823), Tarihi Gümrük Han (1878), which are adorned with statues of Imam Ghazali and Ibn-Khaldun, as well as antique shops and cafes. The historic mosques include Nuri Mehmet Pasha and Tahtani Camii, whose ages can be traced by their minaret designs. I also heard about the Omeriye Mosque, which dates back to the era of Caliph Omar bin Abdul Aziz.
Turkish etiquette includes a unique dress code for the imam who leads prayers. The imam often stands on a slightly higher platform than the rest of the congregation. We listened to the adhan (call to prayer) and felt its comforting effects. In ancient and modern mosques in Türkiye, separate spaces for women are designated as a symbol of equality.
Sadly, the powerful 2023 earthquake destroyed some of Gaziantep’s historic cenotaphs, but one can still imagine the glorious past by observing the nearby Turkish baths and ancient bazaars.
Gaziantep is also home to the world’s largest mosaic museums, the Zeugma Mosaic Museum, and is known for its baklava, copper decorations and olive oil by-products, including olive soap.
In the bazaar, I noticed a bronze statue of a tea man, a common sight in Türkiye’s ancient cities. You can also find ancient fountains built by pashas and dignitaries for charity.
While Türkiye is diligently restoring these monuments, the Islamic world needs to assist the Turkish government in preserving these treasures for future generations.
Evening in Gaziantep
Gaziantep offers a peaceful and safe nightlife, which guarantees a tourist-friendly atmosphere. We spent two days wandering the parks, shopping malls and historic sites, praying in mosques, experiencing traditional foods and coffee, and meeting lovely people – professionals, imams, vendors, taxi drivers and hotel staffers. Gaziantep is truly a tourist-friendly city.
Many shops, restaurants and cafes stay open until 10 p.m. and we noticed police presence in the city, with lights akin to Christmas decorations in Leeds.
Late at night, I spotted an elderly fruit vendor selling fresh grapes and melons. Life is challenging for many in Gaziantep, especially refugees and those struggling in a world that, unfortunately, values war over human development.
We can support hardworking people by purchasing a few items, even if they are a little expensive. It costs nothing to help struggling individuals. The ongoing wars in Europe and the Middle East have impacted Türkiye’s economy, which hosts millions of refugees.
Sadly, there are still homeless individuals and professional beggars, though I met an elderly woman selling small souvenirs who looked at me with dignity as if hoping I would buy her goods.
No place is perfect; if a few materialistic people spoil your day, that’s an acceptable margin. Normally, weekends are noisier and we found that to be the case in Gaziantep as well. Shisha bars and coffee houses played loud music, and on Saturday night, we saw bikers waving Turkish flags in celebration of Victory Day (1922).
Gaziantep’s museum offers a digital tour of the martyrs who fought for freedom against the French Army’s occupation.
Türkiye is a land of opportunities for Pakistani and European businesspeople, especially those interested in importing quality olives, cheese, furniture and baklava or enhancing cooperation in agriculture and construction.
